Other Climbing Opportunities in the Area

Between the bouldering plateau and the sport climbs there is good quality rock at the top of the scree fields. It looks like there are many more potential sport routes as well as trad climbing opportunities. If you’re feeling bold and establish new routes in Passu, please email us!

In addition, there are a few areas where the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Pakistan Adventure Club, and even the army come to train. Most of the routes no longer have bolts in them or are bolted with loose pitons and tough wires…not recommended in the state they are in, but it would be great to see them cleaned up! We met a few guys from the PSA and they were eager to learn.

Passu Sport Climbing Routes

Passu Sport Climbing Routes

The cliff is 30 meters high and you can either lead the routes or toprope them by walking to the right of the cliff until you reach a steep scree and boulder slope. Walk up the slope to the old irrigation channel and then follow that left until you are at the top of the climbs. The bolts are far from the edge, so be careful and setup a temporary anchor on the big boulders in the irrigation ditch if you need to. There is tons of LOOSE ROCK on and at the top of the climbs, so be extremely careful when climbing and setting up topropes. We had a few holds break on us while climbing, so if you’re not very solid at the grade, then toprope. Wear a helmet and have your belayer stand away and off to the side. Don’t get hurt, cause you’re in Pakistan!

The Climbs
The left climb (when facing the wall), PSA, is 6a+ (5.10b). The middle climb, Sting of the Tail, is also 6a+ (5.10b). The right climb, Apricot Cake, is 6b+ (5.10d) and is named after the famous and delicious dessert from the Glacier Breeze Restaurant. All of the climbs are fun and long. Again, be careful with loose rock, especially on the middle climb, because there is a giant loose block that you’ll be tempted to stand on.

The Bouldering

If you continue walking north down the KKH from the sport climbs, then the road will curve right and in a few minutes there will be a rocky slope up to a plateau on the left hand side of the road. If you see a trail up that, then, good. Otherwise, scramble up and you will find yourself on a long plateau overlooking the town of Passu. You’ll also find a ton of boulders perfect for bouldering!

Bouldering Plateau

Unfortunately, we didn’t have a crashpad so we kept our bouldering to V0 and V1. Here are a few pictures of some boulders we climbed. These ones are all a little north of the cricket field on the plateau.

Here’s a bit of beta for some of our favorites (with locally inspired names):

1: KKH Stretch (V1)

This one involves a lower start, quickly moving left to a far-reaching and sharp but solid hold. A few easier moves complete the route.

2: Drying Hay (V0), 3: Drying More Hay (V0)

Good warmup climbs with decent holds throughout. High top out but easy descent via the backside, labeled in the photo.

4: Hunza Hat (V1+ going either way)

A great traverse along the hat’s 3/4 section. When traversing from right to left, the feet holds are a little trickier to find. Good crimpers gets you through it. You can also top out at multiple points along the traverse for a nice view.

There are a slew of other great routes and you could easily spend an afternoon or early evening bouldering up in this area.

If you put up any interesting routes and want them listed here, let us know.

Nanga Parbat Massacre: Families of Ukrainian climbers demand compensation (source:PAMIRTIMES)

Islamabad: Families of Ukrainian climbers who were killed by terrorists in Nanaga Perbat Base camp Pakistan have demanded compensations on 300,000 USD for each case of tragic death.

According to “The Ukrainian news”, the Federation of mountaineering and rock-climbing of the Kharkov area has indicated that no compensation has been given to families of killed climbers from Pakistan or even from Ukrainian government.

Federation also claimed that government of Pakistan responded with repeated refusal to the requests of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Ukraine to provide to families of the lost climbers monetary compensation.

“Political ways of a solution have been used without results there the lawyers Stanislav Batrin and Oleg Berezyuk representing interests of families have sent letters to top authorities of Pakistan including to the president, to the Senate, the government, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of communications, the Ministry of justice and parliamentary affairs, and also to the public prosecutor”, maintained the Federation in its statement.

In the letter which also signed Tamara Svergun (the lost Igor Svergun’s wife), Oksana Morgun (the lost Dmitry Konyaev’s wife) and Arthur Kashayev (the lost Badavi Kashayev’s son), the requirement to pay on 300,000 USD for each case of tragic death is stated.

Lawyers intend to appeal in case of dissatisfaction of this requirement in judicial authorities and to the international community.

Batrin noted that this sum of compensation is adequate, proceeding from practice of the international law.

However the legal solution of a question can be tightened for quite long period.

The basis for trials of it is that the government of Pakistan which takes 4 thousand dollars of tourist collecting from each climber, didn’t fulfill the obligation to guarantee their safety.

If authors of the letter don’t receive from the Pakistan power of the answer for 1 month, will file a lawsuit against the government of Pakistan the claim.

On the night of June 23 in basic camp on Nanga-Parbat in Gilgit-Baltistan’s region terrorists killed climbers Igor Svergun, Badavi Kashayev and Dmitry Konyaev – participants of expedition of Ukraine International Nanga Parbat Expedition-2013.  Courtesy: Dispatch News Desk